demure

couture hat amsterdam

March 2023: Non-perfectionist

Yuki Isshiki

I am not a perfectionist, which means that, the hats I make for you, I wouldn’t say they are perfect.

What I can say is that, I tried my very best. Every time I thought  ‘maybe it’s better to do it in a different way’, I went all the way back and re-did it, no matter how long I had to go back.

It’s just that I’m not arrogant enough to say I am not good enough to achieve perfection and am in owe of the concept of perfection which covers such broad spectrum.

However as I said, I do always push myself and try my best as I know your trust is the most valuable and I hope, together with all the techniques I learned from the best teacher in the world, I hope to deliver something that you’ll be satisfied.

Short statement but with the best intentions. Thank you all for your love and support…!

February 2023: Power of manifestation for an anti-pseudoscientist

Yuki Isshiki

I see the trendy ‘power of manifestation’ the same way as ‘gut feeling’.

Gut feeling or intuition sounds less scientific but I believe that it is actually judgement based on analysis of small events and experiences over the time, each of which maybe too small to have clear recollection of, yet collectively forms a strong base for our judgement. ‘An intuitional person’ is sensitive and intelligent enough to collate these fractions of information to utilize instead of having some god-given power. That’s how I see.

And I approach the power of manifestation in the same logical way. I take an example of a hat maker one man business.

Right from the beginning, I had people asking where I saw myself in 5 years or what my plans for scaling up was. Of course I had none of these, which meant that I could not use power of manifestation because I wasn’t manifesting anything.

To me, these concept sounded irrelevant because all that mattered to me was the very piece I was making. I had some idea of what I wanted to end up yet never lost focus at each step because, once the material started behaving from what I’d imagined, I had to work differently, or got a new idea of what to do with the material. And at the end of the process, I would have a piece that I can honestly say that I tried my very best for. And I could present it to anyone and tell the story with confidence.

However, having turned my passion  into business without much thought, I hadn’t realized that we all have different priorities, goals and what we wanted to manifest. Whenever I was asked about my goal/manifestation, it was mostly in a business context, to which I had no answer, and I was labeled  as not aspiring and I somehow started believing that.

However, after a period of external/internal denial, I am clear of my value. First I wanted to design and make free from other people’s ideas but according to what I believe to be beautiful. And I wanted to meet a few people who share similar ideas and find values in it. Also from business point of view, of course it would be nice if I could make lots of money yet I don’t want to earn non-labour profit nor margin as a middleman. So not a fortune for me but now I know exactly where I stand and feel very comfortable where I am.

And these days it seems that my confidence seems to convince a few others, leading to gradual development of the community, which I hoped to have for my ‘project demure’. And this experience is truly manifestation, which brings me utmost joy.

January 2023-2: Point of reference

Yuki Isshiki

I know I may sound petty but I’m sure at least some of you get it.

Every time i make an oversized hat with a high crown, I hear reference to Eryka Badu and Jamiroquai. For a baggy cap, rastafari. Frida Kahlo for hairband with flowers in the middle. Any caps would be Peaky Blinder. Jewish Orthodox for a hat with a flat brim or a pointed fedora crown. The reference are meant to be positive or negative. Sometimes the reference is not even correct (like ‘Russian’ for every fluffy hat).

When I make a hat, all I care about is how certain mateeials/colours/shapes can be suitable for personal needs (practical/aesthetic). And if you or someone is to give it a name with not-so-nice connotation and that was the reason for you not to wear the hat, I want you to think again. It may remind you of a person or style, but if it happens to be  just a design suited to your practical/aesthetic needs, it’s up to you to own the look and give it ‘your’ name isn’t it? :)

Of course, if the reference is the one you like, that’s great. Yet it is now also your look and you are not copying nor following someone else.

(If you have used such references while talking to me, please don’t take it personal. I observed such conversations over a period and feel that there is a general tendency of labelling the style instead of examining it for your own purpose. I am not criticizing certain people nor certain cases).

I just wanted to say that I want you to feel free to look for the designs you like and own it as yours. What suits you is YOUR style, and confidence will certainly make people around you to call it by your name. own it and carry it off with great confidence please!

January 2023: Surprise

Yuki Isshiki

First of all, happy new year! Thank you so much for your friendship and your supports for demure last year and I wish you great health for 2023!

Yesterday late afternoon a gentleman knocked on the door. When I invited him inside, he said ‘I just wanted to say that, I always get very warm feeling when I pass by this place. I always see you working alone and there is always something new and very beautiful  in the window. I can tell that you are an artist with a warm heart’. The last sentence is definitely too much of a compliment but I knew this sort of compliment was something I really had to learn to accept with gratitude. I was actually as happy as when another customer/friend told me that there is a small piece of me in everything I make.

As many of you may know, my window is far from looking professional but I was so happy to know that someone had such nice feeling about the view. I was also truly grateful that he took the bother to let me know as this kind of spontaneous conversation purely based on goodwill takes place less often these days.

I was rather caught off guard as I really didn’t expect such a pleasant incidence. I however hope I managed to communicate my gratitude to him.

Now I know I’ll be stressing myself to do something new in the window every day, however small, knowing that there are a few who take notice  of and enjoy seeing the results.

December 2022: Friends from work

Yuki Isshiki

A term ‘Friends from work’ has always had less exciting sound to me, although it makes sense to find friends at work as there is a greater chance of meeting someone similar to you one way or another at work.

However since I started at demure, I have met people, not even from similar background, yet whom I call ‘friends’ with biggest pride and gratitude. I never had many friends and there have even been periods when I didn’t feel that I had friends so this is a very special thing.

Making hats once used to be my hobby, which always kept me focused and helped me to feel positive. Since I started demure, I have met collaborating creatives and customers through what is very close to my heart, or what shows my character the most. Whoever gave a chance to my work also gave me some trust not only in my skills but also for visions and beliefs.

It is such a fortunate thing to have people in my life who hang out with me for what I am. And I have to give myself a little pat on my shoulder for  being true to myself in this business although popular ideas about ‘running a successful business’ often suggested that I should go in a slightly direction (I really don’t believe every entrepreneurial business consultants believes in ‘authenticity’ in an authentic way).

I am very happy and grateful with the way demure is going and, for that, trusting customers and good friends that I made there played the most important role.

Going forward, my focus is to nurture the connections that I already have, and to try even harder to respond to the trust you have given me.

Thank you all so much and I hope you’ll enjoy watching this entrepreneurial experiment! Your cheers are always much, much, much appreciated.

November 2022-2 Not so much Sale anymore…

Yuki Isshiki

Past few years I did lots of sale.

Not even being able to welcome customers and friends during the series of lock downs, attracting people with low prices seemed to be one of the few ways to get any cash coming in to pay the costs. I basically tried to cash the fabric/felt stash. Also I wanted to do something to show my gratitude for your trust in my products and support for demure.

It was a desperate measure during the extraordinary period and now that the things are going back to normal (except for all the political/economical challenges), I would also like to go back to my old price policies. I know that many retail businesses make most of money during sale periods but for me it is simply not sustainable.

I wrote in my past blogs but there are two ways retail prices are determined.

In case of ‘retail brands’ which buy stocks from wholesales/ factories and retail, including 'original brands which have dedicated ateliers’, the retail prices are typically calculated by multiplying the wholesale price by 2.7 to 3. That’s why the maximum discount at sale is often 70%, so the store still recovers the retail cost (with 1 as the wholesale price, 1.7/2 as the profit). Typically even at sales, retail brands do make some ‘profit’.

Meanwhile in case of ‘maker brands’ like demure, the price is often calculated by (material cost) + (maker’s wage). And from the maker’s wage, the makers pay costs such as rent. As I also calculate my price this way, continuing to have large discount is simply not sustainable as I need to earn costs as well as minimum for myself to live on.

This means it will be difficult for me to continue to offer the level of discounts from past few years and I am sincerely hoping that my customers will understand that. Meanwhile I will of course try my utmost to deliver the value for your hard earned money and make something of uniquely beautiful designs with high quality. I am fully aware that demure trades in trust in a form of head wears and it is my goal to always honour your trust.

It is rather sad that there is still so much sales going around all the time but I hope what I explained may have helped you to figure out how find businesses which sell something of true values, instead of products with so much profit margin which actually don’t bring YOU value but to the middlemen and the out-of-touch owners. Please shop from independent businesses, shop locally and shop directly from the makers! :)) (And watch out for those who say they appreciate craftmanship and they have ‘their ateliers somewhere else’ ;) They are effectively retailers who buy things from lower-waged people to sell on to you. Sorry but I had to say this.) Thank you for reading!

November 2022-1 Not so much online anymore…

Yuki Isshiki

Internet is a great help in finding people and keeping in touch. And it is a great medium to do business.

I started using my online shop heavily at the beginning of 2020 for the obvious reason. That was literally the only way to sell anything as you might recall.

However, I was always concerned that I might not be able to communicate all the information that I wanted to, not least because my hats are all more or less-different from mass produced ones and the ones from other hat makers and the smallest styling tips and other information would make so much difference.

So I’m so happy that,so far this year, I am able to meet my customers again and make sure that they know everything they need to know. We can have in-person contact that is important for trust. And that’s also why I prefer to meet my customers by appointments. This way I can prepare my hats and myself so I can focus on sharing my knowledge and ideas based on their needs.

So from this year on, I will be selling much less online, limiting it to the items with styles that people are more familiar with. I will also be always willing to engage in extra communication to answer any question you may have.

This will however naturally limit my ‘business opportunities’ but helps me to ensure that each customer is happy with my hat. I’m terribly sorry that I can only offer smaller range to those who live far away but if anyone thinks ‘Ok then one day I want to check out that small studio when I travel to Amsterdam’, that’ll be my utmost pleasure and ‘international expansion achieved’ by my own definition. And if you can make it an opportunity to look for and support a similar studio with their own unique creations locally, that will lead to a sustainable local entrepreneurial environment with minimum impact to environment and unique thriving community-based culture.

So see you all one day, soon or later and until then please take care of yourself and keep in touch!

October 2022: Back on track!

Yuki Isshiki

Lately I finally feel that my direction for demure is set.

demure is a 100% one-man band with creative freedom. And I was fortunate to have learned various skills to realize my free ideas thanks to my teacher who I believe is the best teacher in the world.

Since I turned my passion into a full-time business, I have certainly always tried my best to make my products unique, even if they are of relatively popular designs/concepts. I tried to make difference by choosing the best materials, paying attention to details, ensuring comfort and committing myself to after-care. Meanwhile, as far as the designs are concerned, I have often given  into trends or other given themes instead of experimenting and realizing my own ideas and feelings (which never even ran out of) .

Going forward, I want to have demure designs closer to m soul again and I want to use all sorts of techniques. I know even if they are more challenging and time-consuming (the question of how long something can take’ is such an irrelevant question when it comes to creativity but you know it does have some business implications). This way I will simply feel better probably I am more of a creative person rather than a business person or socialite.

This means that each piece may require even more time, thinking and attention but I am ready to take on the challenge, knowing that the result will be even more rewarding creatively.

Finding the right path for demure certainly over-wraps with my personal journey of finding what is the most important for me and being unapologetic about it. I am now happier where I am and I owe this to many people who have supported me as friends/ customers. These people saw me ‘f’d up but fun’ rather than ‘not following the rules (perfect branding, storytelling and s***). I love you all and would like to say a big thank you.

September 2022-2 Prinsjesdag

Yuki Isshiki

Last week Tuesday (Prinsjesdag) was after all ‘the budget day’ and it was all about policies and where politicians stand. Meanwhile, on a less important note, the day is always an exciting one for hat makers and I want to talk a bit about my experience as a hat maker in relation to Prinsjesdag.

Long time ago,a Dutch bank did an interview with me for their Instagram feed. It was just before Prinsjesdag and they wanted to feature a small business in hat making. So we met and the post went up on their profile.

The first comment on the post was in effect of ‘Isn’t it better if we bought our Prinsjesdag hats from a Dutch hat maker or am I missing a point?’

I had by then lived longer as ‘a foreigner’ than ‘a native’ and the comment was not surprising nor upsetting but somehow left an impression/ prejudice on me that people who congregate for that event might have such preference.

Since then I have had a few orders for Prinsjesdag hats every year, proving that my impression was not right but this incident was enough make me less keen to promote my hats for traditional events such as Prinsjesdag, to be honest. I was like, ‘K, bye!’.

So what happened this year was very exciting because it confirmed the following.

  1. If someone likes a hat, s/he’d buy it wherever the hat maker comes from.

  2. If a foreign hat maker happens to make a hat you like, you may even like the fact that the ‘bloody foreigner’ lives/works near you.

  3. So restricting people based on backgrounds (cultural/economical/gender etc) never enrich our society, or your hat collection at least.

  4. Politicians who fight to break such barriers and work relentlessly towards equality for diverse members of the society are good politicians.

And it is such an honour that one politician campaigning for such society found me and wore my hat to make a statement. And the lady’s  mentioning my name made me feel that I sure had my little space within the community which I feared to be too conservative to accept my presence and my hats.

The day was therefore indeed about the politics even hat wise and It was an inspiring day for me as a tiny member of the grassroots believing in certain values to have an opportunity for representation.

OK I was going to talk about the hat, not politics. It was made by separately blocking offcuts of felts and put together to form a swirly striped hat. Took me ages but I believe good things take time. Some political issues can’t wait that long but we simply can’t give it up because of that.

Now indeed, it seems impossible to separate that hat and politics. Seemingly it was indeed a Prinsjesdag hat. And I would like to thank again my customers including Ms Sylvana Simons who trusted me for their hats, not only for Prinsjesdag. And I am grateful for supportive presses who awarded Ms Simons ‘de beste hoed bokaals’. And last but not least, a big shout out to JeanPaul Paula for his activism and always calling me to his table and saving a comfy chair for me. He always makes me feel worthy as the tiniest part of his activism and makes sure I don’t give up. Thank you.

Before signing off, my sincere wish is that it would be fantastic if there was a super serious hat competition on Prinsjesdag so whoever wins the hat bokaal could write one legislation and it comes in effect as a royal decree..!

September 2022: White rose forever

Yuki Isshiki

Every year I make a small bridal collection and there is always one piece inspired by white roses.

This is because of a good friend of us for more than 30 years.

I met AF when I met my future husband, who was having a crash on her. We learned at the same school in England and after we left the school, we managed to stay in touch thanks to her always remembering to send us cards wherever she was.

A while later my other half and I were invited to AF’s wedding and we traveled to a village outside Lyon, France.

AF was a beautiful bride. She couldn’t stop crying during the wedding in an old church and held her husband’s cheeks with both hands as she kissed him.

We went onto a dinner with delicious beef as main course and we were seated with an English couple who hosted her during her study in England. The couple and we never ran out of topics on how genuine and lovely AF was. It was a lovely night.

On the following Sunday, we had a brunch together in a beautiful yard. It was the first time in my life to eat fresh apricots and I imagined it was maybe a tribute to her father who worked in the farm all his life. He was shy, while the mother of the bride was as sweet as the bride. Then, I realized that AF had kept all the fresh roses she had in her hair since the wedding the day before. The flowers were no longer so fresh but it was obvious that AF didn’t want to let them go as she cherished every single moment of the memorable day. I thought it was sooooo HER. The white roses with a little pale green centres are still the most beautiful white roses I’ve ever seen.

Since then, my idea of the ideal wedding totally overlaps with her wedding and it is impossible not to think about it every time I design my wedding collection. It is fresh, pure, sincere, kind, intimate and memorable not only for the married couple but for for everyone gathering at the occasion. It was extremely personal and super relaxed as everyone was being him/herself.

I really haven’t managed to create as beautiful roses as AF’s, but higher the goal is, the more inspired I remain, right!

Nowadays, while AF still send us cards, I am now connected to her son and daughter online and I am so happy to be able to tell all of them how much I enjoyed attending the wedding and how much it still inspires me creatively.

To everyone who got married this year wearing what I made, I made the pieces with my sincere wish that  everyone will be as happy as my old friend and the small headpiece will become a small souvenir of the special day.

August 2022: A break

Yuki Isshiki

I don’t take a summer break as I can be a bit busy during the time of the year. But I took last off from blocking hats. And that is the only time when I put on nail vanish. Now it’s already coming off and I’m ready for lots of steam and blocking pins!

July 2022: Dog of Flanders 2/2

Yuki Isshiki

Continued from July 2022 post:

Having said this, I’m not trying to write about lack of my confidence nor frustration of not being understood/appreciated. I have nothing to complain on this front as I’m aware that I’m doing this all for myself at the end of the day.

It’s just that, it’s a bit difficult to explain but, process of making things requires sensitiveness and the sensitiveness makes me vulnerable/emotional and extremely self critical. It is also far from sociable process and I have to deal with all these emotions alone. Nello was alone by circumstances as well as by his destiny as an artist and he had to deal with overwhelming emotions for his grandfather and Patrasch by drawing them. Alone. It looked as if he exhausted his life by doing so, ending up dying on Xmas day.

The recent lock down periods have brought me an unique opportunity to focus on creative process like when I was making hats inly for a few private customers and  I fully enjoyed that. However this period has also brought me to a place where I have to deal with emotional vulnerability on my own with a hope of ending up with a piece I love like a light at the end of a dark tunnel. It is no exaggeration to be honest. And it is indeed hard to maintain energy level and strike a balance with ‘positive entrepreneurial attitude’ like showing up on Instagram daily.

That’s where I am right now.

June 2022: Dog of Flanders 1/2

Yuki Isshiki

Dog of Flanders (フランダースの犬, Furandāsu no Inu, 1975) is a Japanese animated television series adaptation of Ouida's 1872 novel of the same name, produced by Nippon Animation. 52 episodes were produced.’ (Wikipedia)

It was a very sad story and the main character Nello was a small boy who wanted to become an artist like Rubens but dies young with his loyal dog Patrasche. Just before death he submits his drawing to a young artists’ competition but establishment judges don’t take notice (except for the biggest guy, but Nello dies anyway so it was too late anyway). During the jury meeting, no one was impressed by Nello’s work and one of them says ‘Well, it doesn’t even look finished’. Nello’s submission was a drawing of  his late grandfather and the dog Patrasche playing together on a vague background. All the other submissions were from kids from wealthy background and the subjects of works were, I can’t remember but something ‘much ‘grander’. And one of these grander works gets the prize. And Nello and Patrasche die soon after in dispair and desperation. As I heard those jury’s remarks about Nello’s drawing, I as a kid would think ‘Maybe it doesn’t look as lush as other kids’ works, there is something in it, but then again, adults from establishment won’t see this’.

Strange enough, every time I make something, it feels as if I hear something like this jury meeting and despite all the best I try. It feels as if someone who is much bigger is telling me that it is not good enough nor not even complete.  And because I work on my own, I have to face these ‘jury’ on my own and most of the time I end up with skepticism on my own work which is just completed.

To be continued to July 2022.

May 2022-2 LITTLE BLACK demure-‘Navy Black’ collection

Yuki Isshiki

Nautical theme has always been my favourite for spring and summer but this summer it’s a little special. 

LITTLE BLACK demure Navy Black collection is made with soft cotton flannel, which is rather close to my heart.

Earlier this year my mother sent me this fabric with a note saying that my neighbour Mr Koyo closed his business.

Mr Koyo had been running a ‘uniform maker business’ for students and pupils of my neighbourhood for decades. When we start at school, we’d have uniforms made by them and wear them till we graduate. After years of teenage population shrinking and none of his children willing to take over his business, Mr Koyo decided to pack in his family business last year. Then he visited my mother and said ‘I thought your daughter was sewing and selling something and if she likes, she can use this fabric’. The fabric had been used to make kindergarten kids’ smock tops and that would give you an idea of how soft, comfortable and durable it is. 

Using this rather special material, I made a few fabric hats including skippers, berets, toques and fisherman’s hats. Except for the skippers, they can be hand washed and can be nice day-to-day hats. I wanted to optimize the ‘utility wear for the naughty’ character of the fabric to honour the story behind this fabric. The colour black makes it perfect to go with many other colours and I hope, together with the nautical themed designs, they can be a part of your casual chic spring/summer outfits. ‘LITTLE BLACK demure’ is a permanent collection label with simple, comfortable and well thought out designs, just like your go-to LBD’s (little black dress) ! 

  1. Skipper cap: Skipper caps have been one of the most popular design at demure. It is traditionally men’s caps but I have made quite a few modification so they compliment women’s rounder face shapes and, for men, they give more relaxed silhouette. The crowns are longer/softer and made with bias-cut soft fabrics so they can give slightly more slouchy look. The peaks are shorter and rounder, giving your face nice contouring. This year I add large gold buttons on a background of black flannel for a bit of ‘90’s Chanel look’. The unique placement of the buttons will hopefully attract attention to the centre of your face, enhancing effect of your cheek bones and the chin.

  2. Beret: I designed the berets so that you can wear them so the bottom line can embrace your face in arch line (for rounder face shapes) or you can wear them with the bottom line straight (for a more of ‘statement look’). Either way, the roomy design and the soft fabric will give a relaxed slouchy look. The berets ca be washed by hand.

  3. Fishermens’ cap: These caps can be worn with the brim folded up, like traditional style, or down, more like bucket hats. They have chic and nonchalant look and the round shape will hopefully help you feel less conscious about the width of your face shape. They are hand-washable.

  4. Toque: You can consider them to be a chic version of beanies. They can be worn as a part of relaxed outfit, or together with oversized pant suits. You will be pleasantly surprised to notice the versatility of this simple cap!

I am extremely happy with this permanent LITTLE BLACK demure collection. They are now available at the shop section of this website and you are also more than welcome to try them all at my studio in Amsterdam. I invite customers by appointments so please feel free to drop me a line and let me know when you’d like to come! I look forward to hearing from you :) 

May 2022-1: Do take care!

Yuki Isshiki

I grew up with a motto of ‘Do what you have to do before doing what you want to do’. I don’t regret this at all because, thanks to this, I have strong sense of responsibility and discipline in general, which helped me gain trust of good people. It wasn’t my ‘Japanese culture’ as often concluded. It was, and it is still my personal choice to value such culture. 

However on the other hand, I ended having eternal contempt for ‘doing what I want’. It always seemed selfish and indulgent. I was always focusing on ‘what I had to do yet not had done’ by a very strict standard. And the more disappointed I became for not doing what I thought I had to do, the more reluctant I became to give myself ‘what I wanted’. I forever never felt good enough and kept pushing myself to do ‘what I had to do.’ Such permanent miserable feeling seemed similar to what is referred to as depression. But my definition of depression at the time was being unhappy about something (external) and having nothing to complain about my own privileged circumstances, it felt as if my feeling was ‘a luxury problem’. I also allowed such criticism from others while dismissing the much more sympathetic ones from those who knew me better. 

However recently, I had an eye- opening chat with 2 of my good friends. I was casually talking about my ‘anti-social and lazy’ life style during the lock down such as not always taking a shower/not brushing my teeth. I referred these bad habit as ‘laziness triggered by lockdown’ before these friends quickly corrected  me by saying ‘You are just forgetting your self worth! You are a charming person who deserves to look neat and have fresh breath. They suit you and you deserve them. Don’t forget that!’. 

Till then I always thought, at the back of my mind, that ‘self-care’ was a self-indulgent thing. But taking shower prevent me from smelling badly (which makes me feel even more awful) and brushing my teeth protects me from getting tooth decay. There is nothing indulgent about it. At the same time, it is also too simplistic to say not doing such things is laziness. I in fact know it as a fact. I have always pushed myself to do harder things. I just wasn’t doing those things because I was somehow thinking that I wasn’t worth it. 

Since this conversation, I started doing small things that would be good for my health and well-being, not as duties, but to feel love from the friends who made suggestions in that conversation. I started allowing myself 5 min more to better select what I wear for the day rather than grabbing what was on the drying rack in the morning ‘to save hassle of putting the clean clothes in the closet’.  I also started accepting and internalizing compliments for what I’ve done. Of course I continued listening to those constructive criticism yet made sure that I didn’t allow the judgmental  part to consume myself (if there was such a part). 

As a result, I started feeling better little by little but also started feeling the urge to do more of ‘what i have to do’ again. It seems that all the self care routine is still at service of fulfilling my duties, not for my own wellbeing. 

At the moment, I try my best to accurately analyze myself and imagine what my partner and empathic friends who truly care about me would suggest to do.  I could also communicate with these people much much more but I tend to overthink on my own. This way at least I should use my overthinking in a more positive way.

As you can see, I’m still in a deep trouble and therefore have no positive message to deliver. But please know that, when you feel terrible about yourself, you are not alone. There are others who may suffer from similar sad feelings and/or others who are empathetic and non-judgmental towards you even if it may not feel that way. Just squeeze a bit of courage off your heart and speak to someone you truly like, or you think that might have similar challenges. And if the people you spoke to didn’t seem to help, it was one misjudgment of character. Don’t blame yourself nor give up. Sorry it doesn’t help much but do take care (such great greetings in English language). 

April 2022: My hat selfies

Yuki Isshiki

Last year I started posting hat selfies now and then. I am 53 years old, always grey roots, head size 58-59cm (big head for the 155cm height), wide freckled face with a flat nose.  Also I had to offload the selfie filter app because my phone became too much jammed with memories. But I thought, if you see someone like that wearing a hat and posting selfies unfiltered, you might start thinking ‘If this one can, I might as well try’.

Besides technical supports that I can give (telling you which hat shape can compliment which face shape, or what modification can make a hat shape more suited to specific face shape or providing solution for bad hair days), how much love or at least acceptance you give yourself plays a big part when looking at yourself in the mirror. Basically, you can carry off most of things if you do proper fitting and once it’s done, all you have to do is to own your style and, ideally, enjoy freedom which comes with it. And there is nothing powerful than your quiet confidence, or what I called ‘demure attitude’. I myself struggle with the horrible thought of ‘me looking ugly’ so I totally understand and feel for anyone suffering from insecurity and whenever I welcome a customer to my studio, using my knowledge/skills and experience to help you remove such feeling is one of my priorities. 

And if I may say another obvious thing, beauty does not come from something skin deep. It’s about owning whatever you are, and the more unique or ‘different’, the more I like it, personally. 

Every time I do these selfies, some kind souls give me kind comments like ‘you look great’ but if anyone really thinks so, it must be my ‘I can’t give an F at this stage in my life’ attitude that gives you that impression, nothing else. And you can and should have the same attitude. I know it’s easy said but certainly easier than losing 10kg in one month right? ;) That’s what I want to say with my hat selfie posts. In my studio, I hope to create a safe environment where we can look at hats from technical points of view and laugh away those silly voices that we hear about ourselves together. See you soon!

8 March 2022: Handy Mum

Yuki Isshiki

When I was small, housewives in Japan would sometimes take up small manual jobs which they could do at home. Taking in trousers and other simple garment repair would be one of the typical ones and they would do the work in between routine domestic work at home. One day my mother decided to take up such a job. She said that, although she wouldn’t be paid much, one of the ladies was inviting other workers to her home so all the ladies could work in each other’s company and my mother thought it would be good for her social life. And she also said that having a small amount of her own would be a little exciting thing. 

Then my father and I said the same thing almost at the same time ‘How much money will you get?’ ‘Well, 10 yen for each pair of trousers taken in’. 10 yen is nit even 10 cents.

My father got mad and said ‘I can give you that money! I mean, have I ever made you feel uncomfortable to ask to buy things for yourself? Actually, I don’t even expect you to ask me if you wanna buy something for yourself!’ I was also in shock to find out how cheap the payment was. I felt terrible for my mother.

But she started going out few afternoons a week. Despite skepticism of the rest of the family, she seemed to be enjoying throughly. She was really enjoying the ‘sewing along’ afternoons with my friends’ mums. She was often getting interesting tips about whatever things and sometimes saucy gossips. 

Full time housewives were always simple manual workforce in Japan (like many other parts of the world). The thing was, unlike  part-time working housewives, full time housewives had less experience of ‘working’, therefore had less knowledge of laws and working conditions. They didn’t know values of their works and throughout their lives, they have always been expected, and managed to remain  ‘sweet, kind and adaptable’. They’d work almost for free and still be happy to have some excuse for social life and money to buy cakes for such gatherings.

I imagine there may be less of full-time housewives in Japan. economy is no longer so good, so mums also gotta work. However, working conditions for part-time housewives are often bad and I see the same formula of exploitation and manipulation.  Meanwhile where I live now, history and situations are different but I often come across examples of housewives being exploted. At local craft marjets, mums are selling beautifully crafted items so cheaply, being subjected to haggling or having their items snapped up by on-seller who’d probably use #craftmanship #sustainability on their instagram accounts. However, mothers are still sweet, kind and adaptable. They’d even say ‘Oh it’s only my hobby so if I can sell them for any money, I’d be happy..!’ One might argue that it’s their choice but what kind of people are they to disrespect the ladies while knowing the ‘commercial’ value of their work?? 

‘Woman in power suit’ ‘Businesswoman of the year’ are all good but kindness and adaptability is what the world need right now, not to be abused even if they don’t even realize or complain about.  

February 2022: What’s in the name?

Yuki Isshiki

When I started this hat brand more than 5 years ago now, I had many people suggesting that it should be called by my own name. I was however convinced that it had to be called ‘demure’. All in lower case. Following are some of the reasons. 

  1. My teacher (who I believe is the BEST hat maker/designer) would often use the word and when she did, I knew that she liked the design. (Being an in-house hat maker for Viviene Westwood,) Not that she never made flamboyant designs but subtleness and attentions to almost unseen details was definitely her signature.

  2. I am introverted and solitaire and I like small subtle things.

  3. By the time I picked the name, I had been rather bothered by the trend seen in things like ‘I AMSTERDAM’, ‘i-phone’, ‘the brand is all about the person behind’, ‘personal story telling’ ‘identity’ . While the messages are meant to be positive ones, in many cases I felt that these slogans were in fact signs of absence of identity or lack of confidence of those who were screaming these terms. I knew that, if I was gifted in what I did and worked very hard, my identity would definitely be manifested in my own works and even if the label didn’t carry my name, people could tell that I put my soul in my products.

  4. I also wanted to see, within the states of minds of my customers, certain peace and calm from the fact that they were wearing something they feel truly comfortable (physically/emotionally) and truly confident.

‘demureness’ therefore means my customers’ relaxed selfless state of mind which comes from real confidence that everything is in good order as well as my quiet confidence knowing that I have at least tried my best to make nice hats and belief in humbleness to continue with such efforts. 

I feel that consumerism and social media craze cause us enormous sense of insecurity and drive us to scream and wave for wrong kind of attention but I will strive to stay anonymous, humble, shy and anti-social and only share stories that I consider important for crafts, however ‘ineffective’ it is for ‘business’ point of view. And I would like to say a big thank you to many people who see that through and extend their supports. I appreciate your company on this journey!

Veganuary 2022: Excess

Yuki Isshiki

I have been doing ‘veganuary’ and I have to say that it is very much fun. I also try not to use processed food so I haven’t eaten vegan meats either but I very much enjoy experimenting plant-based ingredients.

We have been urged to turn vegetarian/vegan for animal welfare and sustainability because these challenges must be tackled immediately. However I wonder if we had to take these drastic measures had we kept everything in moderation (or modest by our current standard) in the past. 

I still remember my childhood when a steak dinner was only for birthdays and Christmas. Only in late 80’s when the economy started booming, my family started having these ‘feasts’ more often. I imagine it must have been more or less the same all over the world regardless of culinary culture. For centuries in every culture we stuck with bread/noodle/rice/potatoes as staple food daily. And back then, there was clear line between ‘normal days’ and ‘special days’ It waa the same for clothing. We would wear modest, practical items on normal days to get on with routines and on special days, we’d get to wear special things like velvet dresses and Mary Jane leather pumps. Such special clothing were associated with special occasions and excitement and happiness which comes with it. It is however not to say that the normal days were boring. We try to be productive and efficient while looking forward to the special days.  

Our old style way of living allowed us to enjoy excitement of special days and find meanings in what we do on normal days. The contrast is the very thing that makes each part of our life unique and keeps us free from endless cycle of wanting more, more and more.

Endless pursue for materialistic matters and pleasure which comes with it ( I said pleasure, not happiness) which started in 70’s/80’s in some part of the world has brought us excess of everything. 

Everyday became party-like and whoever wants to remain sober and get on with daily life was considered boring. For decades there has no longer been contrast between ‘normal’ and ‘special’ and we have been trapped in spiral of materialistic pursuant. 

Odd 50 years later than this cycle started, I think that we need to be aware that the global issues that we now have to tackle are the result of our endless desire for excess rather than cherishing the contrast of two sides of our lives (normal day vs special days) in healthy balance.  Veganism is of course an ideal lifestyle in an attempt to try and make up for the shameless indulgence that we have had past 50 years. Meanwhile as far as the clothing is concerned, it’s all good to upcycle/recycle/thrift as a last resort or symbolism for social media but unfortunately it does not bring material result. We all have to question why there is so much to be recycled in the first place. When we only needed only functional clothing during work days, something a little nicer for weekend outing and formal wears for special occasions, we wouldn’t have needed that much to enjoy different types of clothing and even look forward to wearing your ‘special piece’ or associate good memories to particular clothing items. 

Looking into cultural/industrial history to determine where the problem came from is important to effectively tackle them, rather swiftly. That’s what I was reminded of after my veganuary experience. 

January 2022: Hope and solidarity

Yuki Isshiki

Last night I was watching BBC’s new year programme hosted by Olly Alexander and was reminded of his famous speech at Pyramid Stage of Glastonbury in 2019. A small extract below in which he talks about a change, hope, intertwined nature of societal issues and importance of solidarity (I urge you to search and read the entire piece!) :

“The fight for equality began before the Stonewall riots, it continues today and it will go on until tomorrow, into the future. But the future is not fixed. And our histories cannot predict what tomorrow might bring or what we might do with it.

“I believe that everybody here has the chance to change history. We change history every day, and it’s up to each and every one of us if we want to change the world. I believe there is no true LGBT equality until the fight against racism is over, against sexism is over, against ableism, bigotry, climate change… if we want to get anywhere without leaving anybody behind, we’re going to have to help each other out.”

It says to me that we need each other for a change, we are all responsible for a change, and we are definitely capable of a change. That was my monthly blog #1 for 2022. Lazy piece yet I hope you find it inspiring. I wish you great 2022 with true sense of solidarity!