demure

couture hat amsterdam

May 2022-2 LITTLE BLACK demure-‘Navy Black’ collection

Yuki Isshiki

Nautical theme has always been my favourite for spring and summer but this summer it’s a little special. 

LITTLE BLACK demure Navy Black collection is made with soft cotton flannel, which is rather close to my heart.

Earlier this year my mother sent me this fabric with a note saying that my neighbour Mr Koyo closed his business.

Mr Koyo had been running a ‘uniform maker business’ for students and pupils of my neighbourhood for decades. When we start at school, we’d have uniforms made by them and wear them till we graduate. After years of teenage population shrinking and none of his children willing to take over his business, Mr Koyo decided to pack in his family business last year. Then he visited my mother and said ‘I thought your daughter was sewing and selling something and if she likes, she can use this fabric’. The fabric had been used to make kindergarten kids’ smock tops and that would give you an idea of how soft, comfortable and durable it is. 

Using this rather special material, I made a few fabric hats including skippers, berets, toques and fisherman’s hats. Except for the skippers, they can be hand washed and can be nice day-to-day hats. I wanted to optimize the ‘utility wear for the naughty’ character of the fabric to honour the story behind this fabric. The colour black makes it perfect to go with many other colours and I hope, together with the nautical themed designs, they can be a part of your casual chic spring/summer outfits. ‘LITTLE BLACK demure’ is a permanent collection label with simple, comfortable and well thought out designs, just like your go-to LBD’s (little black dress) ! 

  1. Skipper cap: Skipper caps have been one of the most popular design at demure. It is traditionally men’s caps but I have made quite a few modification so they compliment women’s rounder face shapes and, for men, they give more relaxed silhouette. The crowns are longer/softer and made with bias-cut soft fabrics so they can give slightly more slouchy look. The peaks are shorter and rounder, giving your face nice contouring. This year I add large gold buttons on a background of black flannel for a bit of ‘90’s Chanel look’. The unique placement of the buttons will hopefully attract attention to the centre of your face, enhancing effect of your cheek bones and the chin.

  2. Beret: I designed the berets so that you can wear them so the bottom line can embrace your face in arch line (for rounder face shapes) or you can wear them with the bottom line straight (for a more of ‘statement look’). Either way, the roomy design and the soft fabric will give a relaxed slouchy look. The berets ca be washed by hand.

  3. Fishermens’ cap: These caps can be worn with the brim folded up, like traditional style, or down, more like bucket hats. They have chic and nonchalant look and the round shape will hopefully help you feel less conscious about the width of your face shape. They are hand-washable.

  4. Toque: You can consider them to be a chic version of beanies. They can be worn as a part of relaxed outfit, or together with oversized pant suits. You will be pleasantly surprised to notice the versatility of this simple cap!

I am extremely happy with this permanent LITTLE BLACK demure collection. They are now available at the shop section of this website and you are also more than welcome to try them all at my studio in Amsterdam. I invite customers by appointments so please feel free to drop me a line and let me know when you’d like to come! I look forward to hearing from you :)